Monday February 23, 2009
Saturday came quickly. The kids from the Jr. team were nervous, you could tell. It was the Youth Qualifiers that day and the Pro/Adult Finals in the evening. Since I didn't make finals, I opted to participate in the Citizen's competition at The Boulder Rock Club nearby and watch the Finals event later that night.
I wasn't psyched for the citizen's competition. I have to admit, both my performance and the club's reputation for not being a 'good' bouldering gym had me hesitant. Still, I walked the nearly 3 miles to the competition and tried to get pscyhed for whatever would be in store for me. I'd read during registration that this was a 'highball' competition and I was nervous to think I'd have to climb those problems.
As it was, when I arrived, I half heartedly warmed up (knowing I could warm up more fully on problems in the comp). I did try to keep perspective and set myself to enjoy the atmosphere whatever the cost. For me, with previous experience in an open category at this type of competition meant not to be upset if I couldn't do any one of the Open problems. I even mentioned this to the staff at sign in when categorizing myself (they didn't have an open category online so I had to insist to move me). They kind of looked at me a bit odd to think tht no woman could climb an open problem...well, turns out they were right! In the end, I was the only woman to climb an open problem, and only one of them despite numerous attempts on another problem.
I ran into Andrea Szekey there and we teamed up for parts of the competition. That was fun. Then I heard Bobbi Bensman was the 'tank of a woman' I saw crushing problems. I was in awe! I've heard of Bobbi back in my early days of climbing. She was a rock star! And, coincidentally, I'd just bought her bouldering book for inspiration (pre-comp mental warmup, sort of). Anyway, I had to meet her.
She was really friendly and welcoming. We even
sessioned together on some problems. We were
definitely comparing scorecards in the end, more as
a joke to myself to push me to try harder. I'd say
something like, well I see that you have completed
Advanced problem
#8, which I couldn't do so I guess I should try
Highball Advanced problem #9. ha ha. :) She
was clearly winning and I had run out of problems to
keep trying.
Near the very end of the competition, we were both sessioning one last open problem. She was super close to getting it and I was far, far, away. Then, I caught critical foot beta that helped me make a move I was stuck at, one move less than where she was stuck. I was able to do the move with the new foot beta and quickly discovered I could get super close to the next hold. It was a heck of a reach and Bobbi had been using a bolt hole to help get height. But, on my 2nd or 3rd attempt after, I got enough height to barely get a finger and then two touching and onto the hold. I sent the problem. I couldn't believe it! Bobbi hollered up to 'Audrey, I think you just won the comp!' and I knew I did. She didn't try the problem again or maybe she did, but she didn't send it. I think she was being gracious in not anteing up in those last moments. But, it was such a thrill to be climbing with her that it really didn't matter that I had won. I was psyched to have won, don't get me wrong, I was inspired to try hard and I have her to thank.
Some photos and video of ABS Finals can be found on my Webshots photo site.