Friday January 9, 2009
I am a huge Yuji fan! Couple that with Hans Florine as his partner and you have my attention for sure! I think it was meeting Yuji in Siurana and sharing with him and his accompaniments a wonderfully cooked Paella meal by the Arboles family.
I remember stumbling in early, picking up one of the magazines lying around (I believe it was The Alpinist) and Yuji (though I didn't recognize him at that time) sitting next to me engaged in conversation with Tony Arboles. My friends and I were just in from a climbing session and the next thing I knew we were talking with Yuji. I think he made a comment about the magazine I was reading, but now I can't recall specifics. Anyway, it wasn't long before we were invited to dinner with them. Me and my idolitis couldn't believe I was hearing climbing stories and learning straight from Yuji how La Rambla was going for him. The idea that he would travel all this way to tackle that one climb year after year was amazing to me. His passion was clear, his friendliness unsurpassed for being in the spot light like he is. And, he has a family back home, I was surprised to learn. I think when you can do what you love and have a family that doesn't impede that, then you really have everything. He's very fortunate and I admired what he had made of himself with his passion.
Having been in the climbing world for as long as I have and even so not so deeply involved or connected, there are names that stand out: Lynn Hill, Robyn Erbesfield, Katie Brown, Timy Fairfield (the list goes on) and of course Hans Florine. I remember meeting him at a competition in Sacramento back in 2002. It was my first ABS competition and I remember being bummed that in the end they bumped me into Open, where I finished last. But, I recall how in awe I was to see Hans in the flesh, climbing.
Meeting the people from the magazines who's accomplishments surpass anything I could dream of doing, made them come alive for me. Their personality and the interaction changed everything. Although they probably won't remember who I am or where they met me, I'll always remember these interactions. And, now that I'm out in the public eye, it's a reminder to me to leave favorable impressions whenever possible. You never know who is looking up to you.
So, my little background on Yuji and Hans aside, this is what you really want to see: Yuji and Hans attempting to reclaim a speed ascent of the Nose. The full footage is to be released by Masters of Stone in the spring. I saw this come by my desk via Climbing.com's newsletter. You can sign up on their site to receive them, too. There are 3 parts you can watch. (I can't wait to watch the rest)! I was on the edge of my seat smiling ear to ear in anxious anticipation as I watched the 3 parts (part 1, part 2, and part 3). Just amazing...these guys are just amazing. And don't miss the part where Yuji holds his entire body weight with one hand on a tiny little RP 60+ feet above his last pro. "If this fails, he decks onto Texas Flake." The King Swing is pretty amazing, too, Enjoy!
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