Thursday
November 15, 2007

Mike Doyle climbing training clinic
photos and 2 short videos.
Overview can be found on
Mike's website.
Sunday October 14,
2007

This
is the last day for the Petzl Roctrip and Roctoberfest here at
the Red River Gorge. I had many options for climbing today but
opThis
is the last day for the Petzl Roctrip and Roctoberfest here at
the Red River Gorge. I had many options for climbing today but
opted on a rest day up at
The Chocolate Factory where
some Petzl
athletes and Mike went to try an overhanging dihedral that had
yet
to see an ascent.
Daniel Dulac
Steve McClure
Katie Brown
Whitney Boland
Sonnie Trotter
Lynn Hill
and, of course,
Mike Doyle
were there to attempt a send. Daniel was brave to
go up first and
set the gear, tearing down massive spider webs and knocking down
the half a dollar sized spiders. It was too much work to tear
down
the gear each run so everyone else just queued up and went for
the
pinkpoint in turn.
Steve McClure was the first and only one to flash the
route with
Mike Doyle getting the second send (2nd attempt), Sonnie and
Daniel
followed. Lynn made an impressive attempt, but backed off on the
last move. Katie and Whitney both made a strong showing.
Nearby was another unsent project that had only this summer been
bolted. Chris Linder pulled all of the moves and made two solid
attempts before packing it in for the day. He appeared psyched
to
come back and try it again another day.
After
The Chocolate Factory, I made my way back to the
parking lot while Mike and Steve went on to climb at
Bob
Marley. I met up with friends Craig and Noell (from
Tennessee) who relayed the days' events at the
Motherlode.
Apparently, Chris Sharma decided to make an appearance at the
crags that day and was climbing at the
'Lode and then
Bob Marley.
I also ran into JJ Mah and Marshall German, two Canadian boys
who used to be on the Canadian Jr team that Mike coached. They
apparently were hanging out waiting on a ride so I drove them to
camp and came back to get Mike.
When I got back, I ran into Sonnie and Daniel who relayed a tale
of adventure that happened just after I left. Apparently, while
cleaning the dihedral crack, Jim (who was top roping the line to
clean it) yarded on a questionably loose block. It broke free
gashing the back of one hand and hitting him on the head where
it broke into 3 solid chunks. These chunks fell towards the
unsuspecting group underneath only nearly missing Daniel and
Lynn's son, Owen. It was a scary moment, they each recalled.
Luckily, everyone, including Jim, was fine.
That night at Miguel's pizza, many of the athletes made an
appearance, including Sharma whom I finally got a chance to
officially meet. :) Now that the weekend's events are over, many
people are leaving but quite a few are hanging out longer, too.
I have been quite fortunate to have had as much exposure to
these athletes as I have had. I owe it all to John Evans and
Chuck Odette, both of Petzl.
This concludes my event reporting for Roctoberfest and the Petzl
Roctrip.
Saturday October 13
Today was the flash competition at the
Motherlode.
I've never seen so many people at the
Motherlode!
Many
of the Petzl athletes climbed in the competition, including a
good number of locals for the open competition. The weather
couldn't have been more perfect for sending routes. It started
off cool, but the sun was out and as it slowly made it's way
into the 'lode, the air warmed but never got hot. It was also a
dry day, making it very suitable for climbing.
The run down of the results:
Men's Professional
Said Belhaj
Steve McClure
Sean McColl
Women's Progessional
Emily Harrington
Martina Cufar
Liv Sansoz
Men Open
Ryan 'Future' Roden
Mike Doyle
Jason Forester
Women Open
Kasha Pietras
Audrey Sniezek
Karissa Dunbar
Tomorrow is the end of the Petzl Roc Trip and
Roctoberfest.
Friday October 12
Today was clinic day for Mike and myself. Both of
us volunteered to help our friends, Kevin Wilkinson and Alli
Rainey, with their
clinics, naturally sponsored by Petzl. Alli and I were slated
for this crag called
The Shire,
where the climbs were easy to moderate.
The
women in the clinic were of varying abilities, but for the most
part, the crag suited our needs. We opted to teach what the
girls wanted and ended up spending a bit of time on technique.
At the end of the day, we hung out at the tents below the Red
River Outdoors until movie time that night. We watched a few
films with the feature being a Big Up Production called
King Lines.
Chris Sharma made an appearance and signed posters at the end of
the film.
The only news I heard that day was that Mikael Fuselier
made a first ascent of 50 words for pump (rated 8c+/14c?).
You can watch the video here:
http://www.petzlteam.com/.
Thursday October 11
Last night many athletes where thinking to give
Bob Marley a rest and head to the
Motherlode. Mike and I
planned to climb at the
Motherlode so it was no coincidence when
we ran into a good number of athletes there. I worked
Eight
Ball, trying to get my Red River Gorge fitness up and Mike onsighted
White Man's Shuffle (a 8b/13d).
Emily Harrington, Sean McColl, and Daniel Woods each got on
Thanatopsis (8b+/c,14a/b). Mike walked everyone through the
sequences and with Mike's beta, Sean managed to flash the route.
After the
Motherlode, we went to
Bob Marley crag where we
watched other athletes working the bounty routes. Liv and
Marietta sent
No Redemption, Mike sent
Milf Money
and
DogLeg, his nemesis climb of which Petzl was
generous to put a bounty of $500 on (as part of the fundraising
for the coalition).
DogLeg is really hard or near
impossible if you are under a certain height. Mike is
about 5'4/5'5 and
was able to do climbs like
Thanatopsis, Lucifer (8c+/14c), and Transworld Depravity (8b+),
and today
Milf Money (2nd go, rated 8a+) but could not
get
DogLeg. John Evans, president of Petzl was witness
to the send and to his word, donated $500 to the coalition for
Mike's send.
That night, there was much celebrating at
Miguel's.
Miguel was gifted a Petzl logo shirt, a signed and framed Petzl
Roc trip poster, and many thanks for his hospitality. The Red
River Gorge Climbers Coalition was announced their receipt of
$10,000 from Petzl France.
Bentley
and Morgan each received recognition for all of their efforts in
organizing Roctoberfest.
Tomorrow starts Roctoberfest with clinics all day and the film
King Lines showing at night.
Wednesday October 10
Today was a rest day for us. After running some
errands, we went out to check in on the athletes at two crags
where they might be climbing:
The Chocolate Factory and
Bob
Marley.
At
The Chocolate Factory we found only a few
athletes. We spoke with Steve McClure about one of the routes
and his final comment was something like it being 'nails hard'.
It
was inspiring to look up at the wall and think that he had just
been up there working out the moves. Not being sure that it
would go in the 2 days he had to work it to get the bounty (part
of the fundraising for the Red River Gorge Coalition), he
thought to mover on to other areas.
Most athletes were over at the Bob Marley crag and we made our
way there after our brief stop to the Chocolate Factory.
There were too many athletes there to name them all, but I can
mention those that made impressive sends that day. Martina Cufar sent No Redemption, rated 8a;
Emily Harrington
got the women's bounty ascent of Ultra perm , rated 8b;
and Sean McColl,
Daniel Woods and
Sonnie Trotter made the first
3 ascents of an open project, now called Milf Money,
rated 8a+.
Petzl put a bounty on these and other routes to help raise money
for the coalition and it was neat to see the athletes making
quick work of some of them. Others, like 50 Words for Pump,
did not go so easily and saw a stream of guys tackling the route
throughout the day.
By the end of the night, there was a lot of buzz and chatter for
the next day's climbs. Only 2 more days before the Flash contest
on Saturday at the Motherlode.
Tuesday October 9
Today we climbed at the
Motherlode. Mike got hooked up to help
Bentley swap out the old worn draws with brand new Petzl draws
on some of the climbs (like
Thanatopsis,
Transworld Depravity,
and
Cut
Throat). I finally got the chance to stretch out and test my Red
River fitness on climbs like
Chainsaw Massacre (which I had
attempted once last year) and
Eight Ball.
Jim Winn
was stretching his photography skills and snapped a few cool
pics of me on
Eight Ball.
While hanging out at the '
Lode, I met the
8a.nu crew:
Jens Larsson, founder and owner
Jonas Emanuelson, webmaster
Thomasz Ratacjczak, design/production
Johan Svensson, editor in-chief
Per Ola Andersson, photo editor
As the day went on, a group of Petzl athletes moved through
observing the cliff lines. I ran into
Steve McClure, whose
personal tale from Engineer to climber and his experience with
repetitive stress symptoms encouraged me to stay my own course
when making my transition from corporate to climber lifestyle
and reaffirmed that I should evaluate what was important to
me--corporate life or climbing.
3 French women arrived, one of whom reminded me of a woman I had
met from Quebec. I looked at her with recognition before
realizing I didn't really know who they where. It turns out it
was
Liv Sansoz from France,
Martina Cufar from
Slovenia and another woman I did not
recognize, Marietta Udhen from Germany. They had just flown in from France the night before
so I got to watch them do one climb each before they packed up
and headed on.
Monday October 8
Mike and I arrived at the Red River Gorge last Friday. My sister
and her

husband and 3 children came down to the Red for the
weekend, too. I spent a lot of time entertaining and taking the
kids out climbing. I wasn't sure how many
Petzl athletes would
be out and hoped the kids could see one of them, but we ran into
few people and no athletes. Despite this, they did get to
see some talent climbing the walls at the
Motherlode, including
Mike showing off on
Bohica. It was a good time.
After seeing my family off at the Mountain Parkway, we opted to
climb in the Northern gorge at a crag called
Phantasia. This
crag boasts one of the steepest 12a's at the Red called
Twinkie.
After getting in line for the climb,
Dave Graham and
Joe Kinder
showed up. I was amused at the timing. We went on to Military
Wall where we ran into J
ean-Pierre
(Peewee) Ouellet. Surprisingly the wall was
empty of people, except for them. Granted, it was very warm out,
but the parking lot was full of cars so I assumed there would be
a mass of people there. Not long after, Chuck and Greg, from Petzl, showed. Dave and Joe made their round through and this
time I had the chance to I meet Joe's girlfriend, Colette
McInerney. She
made a strong showing on Gung Ho before the whole group went on
to another crag.
Sept 29 - 30, 2007
Women's climbing weekend

sponsored by
Sterling Rope
New River Gorge, WV
This past weekend I volunteered to help out at the women's
climbing weekend at the New River Gorge. With over 30
women signed up for various clinics and an enthusiastic sponsor,
I knew this weekend was going to be a blast!
The weekend started Friday night, with volunteers and guides
meeting at Burnwood, a National Park Service facility that was
used for the new River rendezvous earlier in the year as well.
Sterling provided the drinks, there was a nice fire, and
everyone gathered to review the weekend schedule and safety
instructions. Women were already arriving for the event and
slowly joined the fireside conversations. The pre-weekend
meeting went quickly and soon everyone was scattered off to
their respective sleeping places: seven or 10, some in their
vans, others leaving for other sites.
The following morning everyone met up at
Water Stone
Outdoors, the
local outdoor shop in Fayetteville. There, the women
registered, collected gear, met with their groups and prepared
for their days clinic. The clinics offered ranged from intro to
intermediate skills with various disciplines represented: trad
climbing, technique, sport climbing, self rescue, anchors, etc.
different groups picked different crags to meet their needs. The
clinic that I was volunteering with, technique for the 5.7
climber, went to an area called the brain at Beauty Mountain.
The guides set up some routes and went over techniques such as
accurate foot placement, body position, proper belaying and
communication. During lunch we even went over some anchor
equalizing techniques to show how to use a cordelette, which
came in each girl's goodie bag that morning, and how to use a
cordelette as a backup safety on rappel. I actually had never
used a prusik on rappel before so I found this part of the
clinic especially informative. As the girls climbed, the guides
enforced the techniques taught earlier in the day. I was
impressed by how well the girls climbed and how receptive they
were to input and feedback on their climbing.
Back at Burnwood the girls gathered, after returning from
various clinics, chatting of the day's events. The pavillion
livened with the numbers growing and the excitement from shared
stories spilling about. Everyone enjoyed a catered dinner from
Joy (the local caterer), some satellite aired jazz, and a
slideshow from photos taken during the day.
Sunday meet up went more quickly with groups getting out earlier
than on Saturday. Sunday's clinic that I volunteered for was a
lead sport clinic. For this, we chose Summersvill Lake and the
Orange Oswald wall with climbs like Hippie dreams to teach on.
Again, the guides set up a few lines and taught the essentials.
This time, the girls were on top rope back up with a lead rope
tied into them. It was a harder way to teach lead belay,
falling, etc, but for liability, we had to do it this way. The
girls seemed to be relieved to know that they would have this
top rope on them, which made it easier to break the news to
them.
This clinic was the most fun and the most involved. Although we
were climbing beachside on Summersville Lake, the guides couldn't
take their eyes off of the climber, belayer, other belayer the
whole time. There was always something to encourage,
demonstrate, correct, or just reinforce. By the end of the
clinic, I was exhuasted! I had to remind myself to get on the
sand and touch the water before heading out, just to do it. :)
The New River Gorge, is gorgeous. The climbing is technical and
often reachy with moves to pull, but the scenery is awesome and
a place like Summersville had me thinking to take my bathing
suit next time I'm out. I heard there was world class deep water
soloing to be had nearby...
At Burnwood one last time was the final meet up to retrieve demo
gear, swap emails, share stories of the day and just be with
friends (new and old) one last time before heading back home.
Personally, I was jazzed from the weekend and eager to share
ideas for how to make the next year's event even better!
Sterling Rope organizes events like these periodically
throughout the year. They held clinics in North Conway earlier
in September and have one planned for Joshua Tree in April. They
plan to be back at the New next year, but don't wait if another
opportunity presents itself. Sign up, come out, learn something
from experts in the field, and most importantly come out and
climb with other women who share the same passion! It makes a
difference..