Fall of Man
Tuesday March 24, 2009
It's been over a year since I was on the road climbing fulltime. Now I am working fulltime, which means my climbing time has been limited, especially outdoors. Still, I try to make the most of the time I can get. For instance, this last week I was able to work from Las Vegas and squeeze in some outdoor climbing in my free time. This worked well for me and hopefully for my work, too.
Essentially, I would climb the weekend and take 2 of the work week days and climb the morning and then work the afternoon into the evening. All other work days, I work the full day or more to make sure those mornings that I am climbing, I can be offline with little impact to the business.
With the short time I can get away, I worry about how fit and able I will be outdoors. My first outdoor trip since November (October really, since November was friggin' impossible conditions to climb) was just one month ago. I'd been trying to get into rope shape but my endurance wasn't quite up to par. I had about 5 bolts worth of tolerance and was fighting a constant pump on everything I tried. My warmups and projects felt equally challenging, but I sucked up the suffering knowing my stamina would come back quickly, and quickly it did!
That trip was a weekend trip, and on the last day of my trip I knew my endurance had improved and was desperate to find a climbing partner to meet me early in the morning before I had to work. I finally found someone and met them at the wall. Eric, from Vegas, was up at the Gallery wall with a friend of his. They were climbing all the 10s to the left of the Gallery when I arrived so I joined them until they were ready to head into the Gallery.
I felt really good on the warm up and was psyched to try my 'mini' project: 'The Gift.' (I call it 'mini' not because it's small but because I'd never set my mind to get there to project it. I only try it from time to time whenever I am there so only 3 or 4 times prior. It's such a nice climb that I began using it as fitness test rather than a project, especially since each return I'd have to re-learn the route because the time between tries was so long!) I was kind of nervous that I might be hyping my potential, but when I got up to the crux, I knew I was sending it. My recovery was finally working and I walked the climb like a warmup. It was awesome, so much so that I was disappointed I had to leave. My excitement left me wanting more and I was flying back to Seattle that day (and as it turned out, I was flying back to snow!). booo.
Psyched by my performance that day I couldn't wait to get back out. 2 weeks later I was back in Vegas and determined to climb every spare moment I had.
Mike was a sweetheart this trip, as opposed to being in Alaska on my last trip. :) Since I couldn't climb full days, he let me climb what I wanted on my mornings and then he'd head off and do his climbing while I worked from the local library. On the weekend, it worked well because we traded days, except for the weekend of the Red Rock Rendezvous where I helped with clinics and he went out and climbed. :) After hiking 'Dirt Cowboy' up at the VRG, a really fun 12c that starts bouldery and ends super technical, Mike told me to 'step it up.' Since it was only the 1st day of my week trip, I figured why not? After all, I had a few more climbing days to put into something.
*Spoiler alert* information about the climb 'Fall of Man' may be forthcoming. You have been warned! :)
Mike suggested a climb called 'Fall of Man.' It goes at 13b and takes about 40 minutes to climb if you are Mike, who knows the climb and has done it a few times in the past. It's a 5 star route and a classic at this cliff. At about 35m in length, it boasts a 20' run-out from the last bolt to the chains. The redpoint crux comes up high, and is only difficult because you might be pumped or you don't like small biting holds. The actual crux is considered to be the section after the 8th bolt. For me, clipping the 7th draw was the 'crux,' though I did fall in the actual crux, but I blame that on the temps not the difficulty of the move. :)
The first 5 bolts are 'Fall of Mouse' a lovely pocketed little climb on it's own, often used as a warmup on the Blasphemy wall that boasts this and other climbs like 'Necessary Evil' (anyone interested in watching James Litz hike this should click the link, it's an awesome video! note how he swings his feet off of razor thin edges as though they were jugs! but I digress...), and High Flames Drifter (in this video, Fall of Mouse is just to the right of HFD start and if you keep looking to the right of HFD, you can see a few of the draws (not really much of the features) and at one point, there's a pan out when HFD ends, keep looking up because FoM goes on and on and on, long after the HFD finish).
(note from here, all draws are referenced from the end of 'Fall of Mouse.' Therefore the 1st clip on 'Fall of Man' is the first bolt after 'Fall of Mouse' and so on.)
At the end of 'Fall of Mouse' there is a nice kneebar rest. Mike and others can rest on a good ledge up and right but my toes barely stay on the foot holds without feeling super stretched out. Therefore, the kneebar proved to be a better rest for me despite that I didn't feel the need to recover when I hit that point. I figure, if you've got it, you might as well use it. :)
The first day I got on it, I couldn't fathom how to get to the first bolt. Mike had belayed this girl, Heather, on it not long before and was trying to convey her beta, but I couldn't figure it out that way. To help me get past it (and show me his beta, and try to show me Heather's (humiliating, I know!)) Mike went up and set a TR through the first 4 bolts of 'Fall of Man.' This helped me incredibly. I tried Mike's beta, but I didn't have the span. It also turns out Mike couldn't figure out Heather's beta so I was left to sort something out on my own.
The one piece of beta in that section of Heather's that helped me was a sidepull down and left that I turned into an undercling. She goes up with her left hand and I go up with my right. Go figure. :)
My beta seemed pretty good to the first bolt and with the nubbin tip from Heather's beta up to the second, I figured I could link that section pretty quickly. My only problem would be clipping the 2nd draw. I had heard that a lot of people climb past it and clip it when it's at their shins, but I wanted none of that!
The problem with clipping the draw is that the hold you are on is not that positive. When it was warm, I was literally slipping out of it. It's like a 2" wide, ~foot long slopey, slanted, slot with a slight lip you can bear down on. Mike says he crimps the lowest part, but my right hand is hogging that space so I have to use the mid-section. I didn't feel that I had enough energy to fuss in this thing and try to move my hand down, though it was an option I'd considered. The left foot is pretty good, but the right foot is not. The next few holds aren't any better, either. You definitely either clip here or keep climbing.
If you keep climbing, you enter the actual crux section of the pitch. Compared to the trouble I had down lower, I did not find the crux that tricky or problematic. This section was a tad temperature dependent but should just be a matter of 'just do it.'
The next day, Mike went up 'Fall of Man' and set the whole thing on TR. This was super sweet of him! I'd been having such a hard time on those first few moves that I could at least test the moves from yesterday with the bonus of seeing what the upper section was like. After that, I did a bolt to bolt lead to the chains. I only grabbed 2 draws on my way. I was super psyched to have made all of the moves but came down completely humbled and in awe of anyone who'd ever sent the climb! I wasn't sure this climb was going to go in the little time I had and I was worried about one of those 2 clips so the next day the goal was to clip the 2nd draw.
The next day, still psyched by my progress and ready to test some link ups, I got on the sharp end and lead to the 2nd draw. I was really sketched but managed to grab the draw. It was a miserable day for me (well, it was my 4th day of climbing despite it having been barely half days every day). I was disappointed and bit disheartened to walk away (especially since I knew my time was limited). I bagged climbing it and since I hadn't yet taken an outdoor fall, I unclipped from the 2nd draw (of 'Fall of Man,' obviously) and got that out of my system.
The weather forecast indicated temperatures were only getting warmer and I feared there would only be next season to think about. As it was, everyone else had already walked away saying the season had ended for the Gorge. Finding a climbing partner to go back up there was going to be difficult.
Mike was setting for a local bouldering competition and wasn't sure he would be able to come out with me. I desperately started asking anyone who might be free. This is not an easy task when everyone thinks the Gorge is out of season and I can only put in a few hours and I'm asking them to leave ungodly early from Vegas (it's about a 2 hour drive) so I can get the best morning temps possible; but, one friend, Sebastian, came through for me. Sebastian had just done 'Fall of Man' this year, as well, so I thought it could be a bit of extra support on the climb. In the end, Mike was able to take me out there, which was awesome for me and Sebastian (who chose to go to Secret 13 instead). Unfortunately, there was no breeze and the air temperature was warm, even first thing in the morning.
We were there with 2 Salt Lake climbers: Rosie and Clay. They bailed pretty early claiming the rock wasn't climbable. I had to agree, but I wasn't anticipating a send so it didn't matter to me. My goal was to clip that 2nd draw and clip it, I did! It was the first time I'd clipped it and to my surprise it was my new highpoint! I had thought once the draw was clipped there was no way I would fall going past it, but, I did. I was able to do a few moves but then I pumped out. Perplexed, I spent some time sorting a sequence through there that might work better (i.e. when I'm completely spent). The crux was slimy and I was falling all over this one move. grrr. With the warm temperatures, the best I could make out was that I was over gripping to compensate for the sliminess of the holds. Still, I was psyched to have clipped the 2nd draw for the first time. Worried I'd have to walk away, I watched the weather forecast like a hawk and Mike (being the supportive boyfriend) offered to take me back up there no matter what!
It would be my last climbing day and potentially last climbing day outside for awhile. For this reason, I had it in my mind that no matter the weather, I was going to enjoy the climb. Afterall, the climbing up there is amazing! From the moment I clipped that 2nd draw, I knew the climb was going down. I just didn't know when. Every free moment, my mind was consumed with the climb. Every movement, potential rest, potential shake, foothold, and most importantly the top of the climb; which I hadn't been up since my 2nd attempt some days ago.
Camping up in Mesquite had us closer to the gorge so we could get an earlier start. I thought the camp ground would be open at the turn around when we arrived at like 10pm Arizona time, but it wasn't. We ended up camping in the hills just north...the same spot that one of our friends was threatened with duck tape and a gun nearly 10 years ago. We had another friend with us who would be in a tent and somehow that comforted me. I thought anyone coming up our way with mischief in mind would go for the tent before the truck. :)
Morning came and not too soon. Either I was overly amped to get on the climb or too scared of the location we were camping to sleep. :) Either way, I didn't care. It was morning and I was going climbing!
From outside of the gorge it's hard to tell what the wind is doing in there. From camp, it was pretty still. The forecast called for gusts so I kept my fingers crossed. It would be the only thing to save me on the climb today...to keep the holds from feeling slimy or my hands from sweating too much.
Once in the gorge, the wind was really blowing. I was excited! the warmups would tell me if I was ready for the climb and they went down easily enough. A little special tweaking on the last climb gave me enough of a burn that I felt ready to have some fun! The wind was so strong at times, the chalk from my chalk bag would blow out, sand would kick up and my hair would blind me. All easily fixed.
Heading up 'Fall of Mouse,' I felt good. Not too good, just good. I tried the kneebar rest and set my mind on the moves ahead of me: the moves to the first bolt, clipping the second, etc. I had an idea for the 2nd clip that might give me an extra moment for clipping the 2nd draw. It had to be quick and I hoped the change would give me enough that I wouldn't feel desperate.
I started up from the rest, feeling strong, missing some feet but getting to the first bolt ready to tackle the second sequence. I couldn't hang out and rest here so I kept moving, a steady and relaxed pace was my goal. Enjoy the climb. Into the 2nd sequence, the holds felt strangely more positive, my fingers locking into the moves easier. I remembered my thought to move my foot before entering the clipping stance. I tried, it didn't work. I moved my left foot then tried the right again before moving my left hand into the slot, this time it worked. The clip felt so much easier and I was moving so well through that section that I didn't think I needed my modified version, still, it's what I had in mind, so I executed on that.
Now, into the crux. I got a few shakes just before heading into the crux. Overall, I felt ready. I could tell that I wouldn't be able to stay there long so a few shakes and I was moving again. Left hand crimp, move my foot, change my hand, move my left, move my foot, get the better part of the hold....nooooOOOOO! Argh! I didn't get high enough on the hold and my left hand slid off and I peeled. This was my new high point.
I felt so strong! Could I do it again??? Now, I was worried about that 2nd clip, again. What if I was tired enough that I couldn't clip, would I keep climbing? I had to decide that I would, but I knew I might disappoint myself. I opted for the mental note to keep climbing and hoped my will power would be strong enough to execute on that if I needed to.
Fortunately, I got a good long rest. Mike and Sonnie were trying Planet Earth and making good progress. Sonnie'd sent it before. He was just along for the ride, I guess. :) Mike was super close! Meanwhile, I was trying not to procrastinate and be diligent about how much time I would let go by without interfering with their climbing plans.
Soon it was my time to climb. Back on the sharp end, I had mentally walked through each section to the chains. I was ready.
'Fall of Mouse' felt a bit pumpier this time, but the nearly no hands at the end helped take the edge off. Up on 'Fall of Man,' I was definitely more tired but still feeling strong. My footwork was better but the holds didn't feel as grippy. The wind was dying off and only kicking up in spurts. I tried not to focus on that part and concentrated on climbing the climb.
The boulder problem to the first bolt went well. This time I used my feet better. I was a bit more taxed starting into the second sequence but I kept moving. This time, I remembered when to move my right foot (having figured that out on the last attempt) and clipped the 2nd bolt, again! It was definitely a bit more desperate and the next few moves to the shake resembled that, but I believe it was this little foot change that made that clip possible that 2nd time.
In the crux, I concentrated on getting my hip tight into the wall. I had to get high in the hold and I needed enough time for my hand to come from at my waist to above my head. This time, I didn't peel. I got the hold, set up to get the better hold (feels like a jug if you hit it right) but my left foot wasn't set right. There was no time to adjust, I had to move or I was definitely coming off.
It was a desperate move to get the hold and my body came away from the wall, but somehow I managed to catch the outside edge of it. Right then, I got really pumped. I was not going to fall here, I told myself! I made a desperate series of moves to get up to the next bolt and somehow I made it. I clipped and was fortunate to have a spot to shake out. I had to stay super tight into the wall, and use any bit of limestone to help take weight from either hand. I did this dance for a bit and then set my mind to thinking of the sequence ahead of me.
As I started up, I noticed how much of the route I had forgotten or mis-remembered. For instance, it seemed like the credit card move came quickly. I was expecting an entirely different set of moves before that. Humored by my poor recollection, I took the sections at hand.
Up at the credit card move, I remember having placed a draw there to 1) reduce the fall distance (I know, silly, right?) and 2) put a more reliable piece of gear to fall onto instead of the worn, taped one in place. I had put the draw on when I was going bolt to bolt because I was greasing off the holds and I didn't want to put any more wear on the fixed piece.
Now, on redpoint, I had the draw and decided I'd put it on, all the same. Poor Mike was clueless what I was up to and he thought I was screwing up the sequence so I hear him shout up 'sidepull left.' I ignore him, knowing he probably can't hear me well, anyway (what with how high I am coupled with the road noise). The thought of how much energy I was using to put this draw on didn't seem to phase me. I was tired, don't get me wrong. And, very aware of how much pump was going on. Still, I put the draw on and clipped it. Then I climbed back down into my shake out stance before attempting the credit card moves.
The credit card move and one bolt up there that I didn't clip before were no problem for me that day. I went through the credit card move easily, clipped the draw I had grabbed some days ago and then kept enjoying the climb all the way to the chains. Everything felt exactly like I remembered from some days prior. The fact that there was a 20' run out at the top didn't even phase me. I was giddy clipping the chains hoping I wasn't going to take the whipper just because I knew I had finished the climb.
It was a proud moment! Not only did I achieve this in my short time there, but it was a VRG climb (which are hard for me). AND, it was a climb that I was in awe of everyone who had ever sent it before me.
That was my last climbing day in the area because I was silly enough to volunteer to help out at the Red Rock Rendezvous that weekend. Now, I'm back in Seattle trying to get psyched to pull on plastic! When's spring coming???
